Grant Stone Diesel in Black Chromexcel - Framed By The Natural Welt And On A Leather Sole!

Every now and then, you find a boot so awesome that you have to kind of take a deep breath before you say its name.

 

This is one of them. 

 

This is Grant Stone's plain-toe service boot pattern they call the Diesel boot, in Horween's black Chromexcel, and sat on top of a thick, veg-tanned all-leather sole.

 

 

A service boot is so-called because it's modelled after, or looks like, the boots worn by military servicemen in the first and second world wars. Usually made of leather rather than the modern Goretex and lightweight material of modern desert combat boots of today, they are usually 6 inches tall, measured from the top of the heel to the top of the shaft, and have a Derby open lacing system. They are designed to provide ankle support on hikes and in combat, may or may not have a cap toe - in this case, it is a plain toe - and are usually constructed using a welted design.

 

I'll go more into the construction method later. 

 

They will usually have a low block heel rather than any tall heel or wedge sole type design, the block heel helping to prevent slipping when operating over rough terrain.

 

If you would like to watch my detailed review of this Diesel boot on YouTube, click on the thumbnail below:

 

 

 

Pretty much all boot makers now have a service boot pattern on their list - everyone from Thursday to Viberg will have a plain toe or at least cap-toe service boot in the mix.

 

As you can see here, Grant Stone's Diesel pattern is a really elegant, simple design, with just 5 pieces of leather - the one-piece vamp, the two quarters, and the two-piece backstay. Proportionately, they create a sleek, elegant and shapely boot, whether seen in profile, or directly from the top.

 

On my YouTube channel, I have reviewed other makeups of this design by Grant Stone, like the Saddle Tan Badalassi Carlo topped model. The versatility of the simple and clean design means that you can change it up with different uppers, change out the outsole from leather to rubber, or even put on a wedge sole, and mix up the welt design and edge-colours, and you have a very different boot. In fact, Grant Stone currently offers 24 different models of the Diesel boot, mixing and matching these elements.

 

There is another black Chromexcel version. Where this pair have a contrasting natural coloured welt, which frames the black nicely, the second black Chromexcel version has a black rubber outsole and black stained welt, if you don't want the contrast, and prefer a dark emo all-black boot.

 

 

 

Jumping straight in to see how these boots are put together, we'll start from the bottom and work our way up, and at the bottom, you'll see that the outsole is a leather outsole.

 

 

Some people won't wear leather outsoles - they can be slippery, especially before you wear them a few times and they rough up to give a more grippy, scratched leather surface. But once you do that, it's said that they get to look ugly, all scratched up and dirty!

 

Can't please everyone!

 

I like leather soles. I've been wearing leather soled shoes since I've been a kid, and although they can be slippery, I like the feel and flexibility of them, and I think once you are aware of what can happen and you step a little more carefully, you don't slip nearly as much as you might think, if at all.

 

They are dressy, I find them comfortable, and they break in faster, and they breathe so are more odour resistant. 

 

There are grippier and there are also more slippery leather outsoles though.

 

Some leather outsoles are treated by impregnating them with an oil or butyl chemical compound to provide more water-resistance, sometimes called a Waterlock leather sole. This also makes them slightly more grippy.

 

Ultimately though, leather soles can be more slippery than rubber, and they probably don't last as long.

 

In this case, the outsole is a super thick 5 millimeters, and it's combined with a 3-millimeter thick leather midsole, and then, wait, there's more - there's a 3-millimeter leather welt.

 

A welt is instrumental to this Goodyear welted form of construction. A welt is a strip of leather that goes around the perimeter of the boot. In this case, all the way around hence called a 360-degree Goodyear welt. The inside edge of the welt is sewn onto the uppers on the inside of the boot. The outside edge of the welt is sewn directly through the midsole and the outsole. 

 

 

In this Goodyear welted form of construction, the means of attaching the uppers to the sole, and the sole itself, are different, hence providing a barrier between water on the outside of the boot, and the dry inside of the boot. It's more water-resistant than if the sole were to be directly sewn onto the inside of the uppers - the stitch holes would create a weak area where the water can seep through.

 

In this case, the welt is a variation called a split reverse welt where the inside edge of the welt is horizontally split. The lower half of that partial split is sewn to the uppers as usual, and the upper half is flanged upwards and pushed against the uppers outside, before the sole is stitched, thus increasing water resistance.

 

Goodyear welting is also supposed to be more easily resoleable because you can just cut into the stitching, peel off the worn outsole and hey presto - glue on a new outsole and stitch it back without even disturbing the uppers.

 

Oh by the way, it's called a Goodyear welt because the construction method was invented by Charles Goodyear Jr., son of Charles Goodyear of Goodyear vulcanised rubber tyres fame.

 

One of the disadvantages of a Goodyear welt, especially a 360-degree Goodyear welt, is that the method does create a discernable "ledge" all the way around the boot, so it's not particularly attractive for a dress boot which you might want to be smoothly sleek where the uppers meet the sole.

 

In the case of boots like the Alden Indy or the R M Williams Chelsea boot, they use a 270-degree Goodyear welt, where the welt only goes around three-quarters of the front of the boot, thus leaving a slimmer looking heel profile.

 

Now, if you think about it, sewing on a 3 mm thick strip of leather all the way around the edge of the boot is going to create a 3 mm cavity in the middle of the boot. This could be quite uncomfortable so traditionally the cavity is filled with cork. 

 

Some modern boot makers will now use Man-made fillers like memory foam, but Grant Stone uses the traditional cork filler inside. Covered with a leather insole on the inside, this leather, cork, leather combination is meant to be more comfortable the more you wear the boots because your foot gradually impresses itself down into the sole construction, making a custom foot impression of your feet.

 

On top of the heel area on the inside is another piece of foam backed leather liner to provide a comfortable heel strike when you walk.

 

The heel itself is a real leather stacked heel, with a thin rubber pad inserted betyween the leather layers for shock absorption, and a rubber heel-strike piece to counter the slipperiness.

 

The inside of the boot is fully lined with a tough yet supple veg-tanned leather lining. Even the tongue is lined.

 

This backs up the Chromexcel so that the whole boot is supple yet feels quite tough. There is no sense this is a genteel parlour boot! The uppers feel thick and tough and ready for outdoor action despite the leather soles.

 

The tongue is semi-gusseted up to the third eyelet. This semi-gusset and the lined and stiff tongue means that the tongue just doesn't slip during wear.

 

The hardware is Grant Stone's very recognisable brass hardware, fully backed with washers at the back for protection - four large eyelets and three nicely sized speed hooks that look good taking these flat waxed cotton laces, but can also take thick paracord or leather laces if that is your desire.

 

I've already mentioned the uppers leather is Chromexcel. Chromexcel is a type of leather made by Horween Tannery in Chicago. They are a 5th-generation tannery started in 1905 and still owned by the same family. The tanning method to produce Chromexcel was invented by Horween over a hundred years ago. It is tanned using over 80 different processes over the course of 28 days, a ridiculously complex and skilled operation.  

 

 

It is so flexible and durable that it was used as engine seals in military trucks and tanks during the Second World War. The base tan uses chromium salts to produce a soft and supple, and very durable leather. Then the tanned leather is hot stuffed in great heat with secret oils and waxes making it self-repairing because of the amount of oils and waxes impregnated in it. Then at the end, the hide is hand-finished with aniline dye and neatsfoot oil. Aniline dyes are not entirely uniform in colour, and sometimes the leather is not struck through, that is, the dye does not go all the way through.

 

Horween produces Chromexcel in a variety of colours, and in this one, the black is not struck through. It will patina to a tea core effect - the base colour is brown, the black dye sits on top, and over time, with wear the brown undertones will show through.

 

I have to say, it's such a lovely thick, black and shiny leather that I'm babying it a little. 

 

To me, the black is framed beautifully by the natural coloured welt and outsole edging.

 

 

The toes and heels are shaped and structured, using thick veg tanned leather. Again, modern boot makers might use cheaper artificial material such as thermoplastics, so the traditional leather toe puff and the leather heel counter are a nice touch. They provide the shape to the toes, and allows your heels to sit into the heel cup.

 

Those leather heel counters are covered by a two-piece backstay - or more accurately a backstay strip up the shaft to cover the stitching there, and a heel counter pocket to cover the heel counter. 

 

I find the combination very workmanlike, but elegant. 

 

The top of the shaft is unfinished, not rolled or covered - and this is where you can see the brown undertones showing through.

 

The stitching all over - on the welt, across the reinforced areas like the quarters and the heel backstays - are all very even, the stitch density per inch or Stitch per Inch or SPI is very even, tight, and faultless. Overall, it's a well put together boot.

 

 

 

So, how do you take care of Chromexcel, and care for these leather soles?

 

As a default, I always try to look at the boot maker's recommendations in leather care. The Grant Stone website is not specific about caring for Chromexcel. So my next port of call is the tannery. 

 

The Horween blog does talk about using neatsfoot oil to finish the tanning process and says that it's their first recommendation when asked about conditioning Chromexcel. At the same time, I've seen elsewhere, I think from Phil at Ashland Leather, who says that when he worked at Horween, they used gallons of Venetian Shoe Cream. That kind of vibe sits well with me. 

 

If you've been following my videos, you'll know by now that for smooth leathers I swear by neutral Venetian Shoe Cream. 

 

It's cheaper than Saphir and to me, performs equally well, especially on boots that will not be worn all the time as dress boots.

 

Personally, my care routine for these boots would be to first brush any loose dirt off, especially around the welt. Then I'd clean them with a damp rag, let them dry, and then brush again just to remove any little grains of sand that might be abrasive over time. As I said, my go-to conditioner is neutral VSC so I'd condition them with 1 or 2 thin coats, allowing at least 10 or 15 minutes to dry and soak in. 

 

If I'm not in a hurry I might even wait overnight. Once they dry to a light haze, it's back to the fine filament horsehair brush and basically, brush until your arm falls off!

 

You'd be surprised at how the oils and waxes in the leather move with a strong, brisk brushing. You can't see it in this black, but in any lighter colour you'd see the waxes and oils almost pool and spread underneath.

 

You can. but I don't apply a coat of cream polish, in neutral or black to give the boots a little more 

shine, and then finally, a final quick buff with a polishing cloth.

 

In time though, as the teacore effect comes through, and the brown base starts to show through, you can apply black cream polish - cream polish has more pigment than wax polish - and that will apply a coat of colour back over the brown if that's what you want.

 

 

How often would I condition them?

 

Depends on wear, and I really would not over-condition them - Chromexcel is a very oil-infused leather anyway. For my use where I wear these regularly but not frequently, I've conditioned them about twice a year, and they're not feeling like they need any more than that.

 

What I do though, is brush them - a lot - almost but not quite after every wear.

 

As for the leather soles? Some people recommend putting on toe taps - those metal toe tips to prevent wear at the toes. Some people recommend putting on a rubber half-sole. Me, I'm loving the feel and look of the leather so I'm not going to add anything other than a brush of an oil made up specifically to waterproof and protect leather soles. While Saphir makes a similar product, I used a product from Colourlock Australia. 

 

The toes did wear quite quickly at the beginning, but then they stopped. I think they wore in line with my walking gait, but then when they had adapted, the initially alarming wear just stopped.

 

These are super thick leather soles - I'm going to enjoy them until the wear looks significant and then I might put on a sole protector for a bit before I eventually resole them.

 

 

 

 

I've already discussed how I sometimes wear them with a suit. I don't find the tough look, especially framed by that natural welt, a discord with a formal suit or formal dress pants. I think these days, you can wear a suit the traditional way, especially if you're putting on a tie, with a dress shirt and really dressy shoes, but you can also dress down a suit partially by removing your tie and adding some seemingly incongruous footwear. 

 

These fit that bill. At least while they are still all black and shiny. The natural welt is a frame, not a rugged statement - for example if these were cream wedge soles or Doc Marten style thick commando soles, I wouldn't wear it with a suit. 

 

However, it is a service boot - so anything casual will also work.

 

 

I've worn them as business casual with a blazer and chinos or 5 pocket pant jeans. I think you can certainly wear them with blue denim, but probably not light wash because the strong black is a heavy contrast. When they patina and the teacore effect comes through, then maybe.

 

On a versatility scale they're probably about 80% - strangely the missing 20% -at least at the moment until they patina a bit, is the rugged casual end of the spectrum. They're not lumberjack or construction work boots. Anything else, from barbeque casual to smart date night casual to business casual, and they'd be fine.

 

 

 

 

Let's turn to the most stressful part of ordering online - the sizing.

 

I find that when I buy a brand for the first time, my stress levels rise when I choose the size, and then stay that way for a couple of weeks until the boots arrive and you can actually try them on!

 

These are built on Grant Stone's Leo last. Their Leo last - the foot-shaped mould on which the boot is shaped around - is said to fit  four foot types - medium arch, high arch, heavily splayed foot, and flat but flexible footed. To me, it feels very much like an Alden Trubalance last meaning that I feel my heel snugly held, the waist and arch is fully supportive - I even feel the famous Alden "tuck" under the arch - the ball of the foot is wide, accommodating my big knucklebones, and the toes are rounded so that my toes have plenty of room.

 

The contrasting split reverse welt causes an optical illusion when seen in profile - it looks like the vamp and toe box are very low-profile flat.

 

 

In fact, that's far from the truth. I have never felt a lack of volume in a pair of Grant Stones in my size. They fit my feet with comfortable room straight out of the box.

 

My right size is a half down from my true Brannock size. A Brannock device is the machine you stand on in the shoe store where they slide levers around to measure the length and width of your feet. Do yourself a favour if you're buying online - go to a physical store and get yourself measured, and then contact the online boot maker and ask what would fit you, giving them your Brannock measurement and some examples of other shoes that fit you well.

 

My Brannock size in US sizing is an 8 and a half in D or average width. For UK and Aussie readers, our sizing convention is one down from US, so an 8 and a half is 7 and a half in our measurement unit. And a D-width is usually a G-width but could be an H because width sizing names vary with UK manufacturers.

 

Confusing.

 

Anyway, from my Brannock 8 and a half D, I wear Grant Stone 8 D and it's a perfect fit.

 

I cannot for the life of me understand why all boot and shoemakers can't just agree on an industry standard based on an actual foot measurement! The Japanese seem to do it well because they sell their shoes using centimetre measurements. In Japan you don't buy a size 8, you buy a size measuring 26 centimeters, or whatever.

 

Anyway, an 8D fits me perfectly. As I've already said, comfort out of the box, no real break in required despite the thick, lined uppers and the super thick sole. Really, the only thing that needed breaking in was flexing the thick leather on the leather outsole.

 

 

 

I haven't yet mentioned Grant Stone is made in China. I've discussed this in my other video reviews, like when I reviewed the Coffee Suede version of the Diesel boot. Here, all I'm going to say is that if you think Made in China equates with poor quality, forget about it. These are way better quality than many British and American shoes that I've owned over the years - and some of them at way over this price. 

 

Quality is not a function of where something is made, but from what specs you specify, and what processes you put into place to drive quality manufacture.

 

If you have other objections like poor labour practices or politics, go watch that review of the coffee suede Diesels. I try to address them there.

 

So, what do I think about quality? 

 

Big tick. 

 

These punch well over their weight. The uppers are from Horween, one of the oldest and most respected tanneries in America, if not the world. Chromexcel is one of their most famous and premiere products. The leather lining is top quality from Wisconsin. Even the veg-tanned welts and insoles are from the US. They use a cork filler in the footbed cavity - not some cheaper synthetic in-fill. There is a triple-rib steel shank inserted in there - providing top arch support and rigidity. Even the heel counters and toe puffs are leather - who does that these days except the top Pacific North West bootmakers?

 

Their website says:

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are listed on the website at US $380 (I bought them in November 2021 when they were listed at US$360 for US$278 in their Black Friday sale). That was a steal because I think, even at US$380 they are worth it. In terms of quality manufacturing, comfort in use, and design versatility, 

never mind toughness and durability, they compare well, if not better than Aldens at US$600, and Allen Edmonds at mid US$400. 

 

In my opinion, they are worth it at a hundred dollars more than they're listed at - hands down.